Shoe sewing machines



Nov. 22, 1960 A. s. CLARK SHOE SEWING MACHINES Original Filed Jan. 9, 1952 8 Sheecs-Sheefl l [nvenor A/#Qc/ S Czar/f Nov. 22, 1960 A. s. CLARK SHOE SEWING MACHINES 8 Sheets-Sheet 2 Original Filed Jan. 9, 1952 [nz/enfaf Alf/eo S Clar/f By his Af Nov. 22, 1960 A. s. CLARK SHOE SEWNG MACHINES 8 Shee 11s-Sheet 3 Original Filed Jan. 9, 1952 NOV. 22, 1960 A s, CLARK SHOE SEWING MACHINES 8 Sheets-Sheet 4 Original Filed Jan. 9, 1952 .M ZJ

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Nov. 22, 1960 A. s. CLARK SHOE SEWING MACHINES \|||||||.||II. I| |l||lllllllllnllllllllllll 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 Original Filed Jan. 9, 1952 Nov. 22, 1960 A s, CLARK I 2,960,947

SHOE SEWING MACHINES Original Filed Jan. 9, 1952 8 Sheets-Sheet 6 Nov. 22, 1969 A. s. CLARK SHOE SEWING MACHINES 8 Sheets-Sheet 7 Original Filed Jan. 9, 1952 Invenfar Aff/ed 5 C70/"k NOV. 22, A Q CLARK SHOE SEWING MACHINES 8 Sheets-Sheet 8 Original Filed Jan. 9, 1952 United States Patent O sHoE SEWING MACHINES Alfred S. Clark, Beverly, Mass., assignorto United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, NJ., a corporation of New Jersey Original application Jan. 9, 1952, Ser. No; 265,660, now Patent No. 2,773,461, dated Dec. 11, 1956. Divided and this application Mar. 5, 1956, Ser. No. 569,453

18 Claims. (Cl. 112-46) The `present invention relates to improvements in shoe sewing machines, more particularly of the type disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 2,542,993, granted February 27, 1951, and No. 2,773,461, granted December 11, 1956, both upon application of the present inventor, .in which a shoe upper, a sock lining attached to a rabbeted platform sole, and a platform wrapper or sole binding strip are sewn together with a seam passing through all the parts except the platform sole, the exposed threads of the seam appearing on the Wrapper strip and on the sock 'lining within the rabbet of the sole. The present applica- 'curved hook needle and a curved work penetrating and lfeeding awl. vupon by that machine as originally designed is of such The type of Work intended to be operated thickness and rigidity that it is essential to employ an awl to form a perforation in the Work for the subsequent passage of the needle. With rigid Work the aWl makes an effective work feeding instrument. However, the type of work on which the machines of both the prior patents, above referred to, as well as that of the present invention, are intended to operate may include relatively light iiimsy material, such as cotton drill or other loosely woven fabric. ln order to avoid cutting or fraying the fibers in fabric excessively, so as to cause large numbers of loose projecting ends in the fibers or other injury to the strength of the fabric, it is desirable to utilize a work penetrating instrument of much smaller gage than that employed in the machine of Patent No. 2,542,993. With the use of a small gage awl, the awl loses a substantial 'proportion of its stiffness and so is subject to greater fiexure during work feeding movements with the result that stitches of irregular length may be formed or the feeding movement of the work may be more diilicult to `control through the machine.

The work operated upon by the illustrated machine also is composed of fiat sheet materials cut into blank shoe upper and sole forms with edges of different curvatures shaped to predetermined patterns. The sole comprises a thickness of resilient platform material withk the sock lining attached thereto. In addition, the platform material is rabbeted along its edge to approximately onehalf of its thickness beneath the sock lining. The upper and sock lining projecting from the platform material are then sewed togetherwith their edges of different curvatures in register, the patterns by which the parts are cut being such that the shape of the shoe is created during the sewing operation, no last being employed. Because of the rabbet in the sole a curved needle machine is required, particularly since it is essential to sew the upper p to the sock lining through that portion of the lining which projects from the sole above the rabbet without including the sole material belowrthe rabbet. To accomplish prop- ICC er register of differently curved edges on the parts, much skillful and attentive manipulation is required of the operator in presenting the parts to the machine.

A further purpose of both the prior and present machines is to attach a strip of wrapper or sole edge covering material also composed of light irnsy leather or composition fabric to the shoe parts being operated upon. The attachment of a curved wrapper strip, together with the task of bringing the upper and sock lining edges into register, ordinarily would impose an almost insuperable burden on the operator. The operation hereto-fore has been performed so slowly that the expense of a specially designed machine may not be justified, it being frequently possible to shape and sew the parts together by hand, with almost equal facility to the present known machine operations.

To relieve the burden on the operator of presenting all the parts in proper register to the machine of the prior Patent No. 2,542,993, it is equipped with a feeder for assisting the operator in advancing the wrapper strip toward the sewing point so that he may give his full attention `to the proper register of the upper and sock lining edges only. The patented Wrapper strip advancing feeder .comprises flat metal plates formed with toothed elements at their ends yieldingly engaging the wrapper strip. Such an arrangement acts to feed the strip effectively in a straight line and provides beneficial results when the wrapper strip itself is composed entirely of straight strip material. If, however, a strip is of variable width and is curved in a manner to conform itself with a relatively high wedge heel on a shoe, such a feeder will not maintain the edge of the wrapper strip in proper register with the other parts of the shoe yand the advantage of the feeder in large measure fails.

It is accordingly an object of the present invention to provide an improved sewing machine for use in the manufacture of platform type shoes, in which the manipulation of the work by the operator is facilitated to such an extent that the overhead expense and upkeep of a special machine designed for the purpose is economically feasible, the saving in time, in speed of presenting the parts to the machine and the quality or workmanship obtainable justifying the effort directed toward machine improvements. A further object is to improve the work feeding action of a sewing machine adapted primarily for operation upon a platform type of shoe, in which the presentation of the shoe to the machine will require less skill and ability on the part of the operator than heretofore, and in which the stitches of a seam connecting the upper to the sock lining will have greater holding power and will be inserted without any tendency to reduce the strength of the parts by fraying or improper spacing of stitches either from each other or from the edges of the parts. Further objects are to improve Wrapper strip guides for prior machines in such a way that little or no attention will be required on the part of the operator in directing a wrapper strip of both variable width and curvature into the sewing point of the machine, particularly in the type of machine above indicated where the curvature of the wrapper strip is of relatively short radius such as required for high heel shoes.

A machine embodying the present invention is provided with a curved needle and a work support having its Workengaging surface disposed at an angle to that part of the needle path along which the needle engages the work to enable the needle to enter and emerge from a shoe upper and sock lining attached to the upper surface of a platform sole without penetrating the sole, in which machine the work is fed in part by the needle instead of the awl, the needle being reinforced during work feed by a loop spreader mounted on a carrier for the needle, so that the spreader moves in the direction of feed with the needle.

Tli's and other features of the invention are embodied in the devices, combinations, and arrangements of parts, the advantages of which will readily be understood from the following detailed speciiication, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. l1 is a view in front elevation, showing portions of a shoe being operated upon partly in section, during presentation to a sewing machine embodying the features of the present invention; t

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the machine illustrated in Fig. l;

Fig. 3 is a view in rear elevation of the machine;

Fig. 4 is a partially sectional view in side elevation, looking from the left of the machine and omitting the shoe parts;

Fig. 5 isY a view in front elevation and on an enlarged scale of the sewing head of the machine and a partial section of a shoe being operated upon;

Fig. 6 is a sectional view of the machine;

Fig. 7 is a detail View on a further enlarged scale and in rearesectional elevation of the stitch-forming devices in the machine surrounding the sewing point, showing gt'h'e needle at the limit of its work penetrating stroke while being stiffened by the loop spreader;

Fig. 8 is a view in left side sectional elevation of the same vparts in the same positions taken from the line VIII- VIII of Fig. 7;

9 is a view similar to that of Fig. 7 showing the needle as it is being retracted from the work and the action of the loop spreader in presenting a needle loop to the shuttle; and v Fig. yl0 is a view in left side elevation of the same parts taken from the line X-X of Fig..9.

Theapparatus illustrated in the drawings is a curved eye-pointed needle Ylocltstitch sewing machine intended to operate upon a shoe similar to that described in United States Letters Patent No. 2,546,152, granted March 27, 1951, upon application of I. D. Chandler. The shoe disclosed in the patent is of the platform type in which a sock lining is attached to a rabbeted platform sole above the rabbet and the edges of a precut upper are secured to the sock lining by a searn .inserted along the inner face of the rabbet without including the platform sole. For binding the edge of the platform sole, a wrapper or platform cover strip also is attached to the edges of the upper and sock lining so that the strip may be lasted over the edges of the parts into overlapping relation with the bottom of the parts.

The machine of inventors prior patent is eifective for sewing the parts of a shoe thus constructed when relatively flat low heel shoes of uniform shape with no abrupt curvatures are operated upon, a straight wrapper or cover strip being effective for binding the edges in such shoes. ,If an attempt is made, however, to sew high heel shoes having abrupt lengthwise curvatures along the edges of ,the parts, the stitchforming and work-feeding devices of prior sewing machines do not cooperate with each other effectively to produce the best results. Dicnlty frequently is encountered in sewing high heel shoes in properly matching the upper to the outline of the sock lining while at the same time eXing the platform sole to which the sock lining is attached with a sucient degree of curvature to create the desired shape of the shoe. This diflculty is most troublesome when sewing along the inside shank of a shoe, the parts tending to pull loose from their operating position in the machine and to become so displaced that the needle in the machine fails to penetrate the parts at the proper points. This difiicu ty is partially the result of the manner in which pror sewing machines feed the parts operated upon through the use of a work feeding awl.

The machine of the first noted prior patent is an adaptation of a well-known form of sole sewing machine, similar to that disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 473,870, granted April 26, 1892, in the names of French and Meyer and is equipped with a stationary clamp comprising a presser foot and a rabbet gage, the parts being retained upon a work guiding support. During feeding movements, the clamping action on the shoe parts is released so that the awl is the only instrument which retains them from displacement. Since there is a strong tendency for the edges of the shoe parts to separate, the awl alone is insuicient to prevent such separation and displacement.

According to the present invention a machine is provided which is constructed in a manner most effective for operation upon a rabbeted platform shoe with a novel mechanism forV actuating and stiifening the needle in the machine. The shoe is also gripped by a work feeding clamp while the needle engages the shoe. Thus, the use of a single work penetrating instrument such as an awl alone is no longer relied upon to feed and to retain the shoe operated upon form displacement during work feed, the needle which actually inserts the stitches moving with the shoe parts to feed them while each stitch is being inserted. Proper spacing of the stitches is insured by this arrangement and there is no necessity for lining up each perforation formed by the awl with the needle path, the needle being reinforced adequately while engaging the work and the work being gripped by a stationary clamp during the back feeding movement of the needle.

Referring more particularly to Fig. 7 of the drawings, theY shoe operated upon comprises a semirigid platform sole 2 cut from a quarter-inch layer of granulated cork composition and a sock lining 4 of exible cotton drill material attached to the upper surface of the platform sole with its edges in register with those of the sole, an upper 6 and a variable width wrapper strip 8 having a toe part 10 and a heel part 11 (Figs. 1 and 2) all connected together with stitches of a seam extending about the edges ofthe parts and intersecting them, with the exception of the platform sole. The platform sole direct'- ly beneath the sock lining is formed with a groove or rabbet 12 (see Fig. 7) into which the v,seam allowances of the parts along their edges are folded when the wrapper strip is lasted about the platform sole, the rigidity of the platform sole along its edges insuring proper outline configuration of the shoe during insertion` of the connecting seam. The improvement obtained in 'outline configuration of a shoe by the use of a semirigidplatform sole, however, raises further problems if an attempt is made to construct a style of shoe having high heels. The rigidity of the sole which insures improved outline resists exure essential to bringing the edges of the attached sock lining readily into register with the edges of the upper. Since the resistance to exure in the sole is met during the sewing operation, sufficient force must be applied to the parts in advance of and at the sewing point in the machine itself to offset this resistance. y

In inventors machine of the first prior patent, if an attempt s made to sew a high heel shoe it is extremely difficult to maintain the parts in register along their edges during the sewing operation. This ditculty results at least in part from the feeding action produced by the awl of that machine. As the shoe is being fed the ,clamping action of the presser foot is released and the shoe parts and to separate, moving lengthwise along the awl so that Whenthey are again reclamped the perforations in the shoe parts formed by the awl may not line up with the needle. Unless substantial eiort is made to overcome this diincultyY each stitch inserted will be displaced from the previous one in a cumulative manner until the seam eventually fails to intersect one or more ofthe shoe parts. g

In order to reduce the effort expended by a sewing machine operator while connecting the parts of a rabbeted platform type shoe, the form of which is created during stitching operations, Vthe machine of the present invention is provided with a curved eye-pointed needle 14 (Figs. 5 yto l0, inclusive); a loop spreader 16, a 'shuttle 18 having a loop entering beak 19, and a stationary work clamp consisting of a presser foot 20 and a gage 22 arranged for entry into the rabbet 12 of the platform sole 2 to guide the location of the seam for attaching the other parts of the shoe. For supporting the parts operated upon against the thrust of the sewing needle to insure that the parts as they are presented to the machine will be disposed at the proper angle so that the needle will enter the upper and sock lining and emerge therefrom adjacent to the edge of the sole through the rabbet of the sole, a work support 24 (Figs. 1 and 4) is provided having an extended surface beneath the work clamps. With such arrangement all the parts operated upon, including the platform sole 2, are presented at the proper angle to the needle and are compressed together at the sewing point by the grip of the clamps. For this purpose the work-feeding clamp is actuated by a convenient mechanism more fully disclosed in inventors copending application, above identied, and is mounted on a carrier 26 movable in the line of feed. The carrier 26 also supports the curved needle, which has a supporting stud 28 mounted on the carrier to enable the clamp to move in the direction of feed while engaging the work to feed it.

As best shown in Figs. 5 and 6, the work feed carrier 26 comprises a swinging frame rotatably mounted on a spindle 30 secured in a vertical positon within a portion of the machine frame 32 by clamp screws 34. The spindle projects above and below the portion of the frame in which it is mounted and enters loosely into bearing portions of a yoke in the carrier. The upper end of the carrier 26 has a forwardly projecting arm to which is bolted on its forward side at 36, a plate 38, the forward end of which forms a Work feeding rabbet gage 39. The plate 38 has fixed within it at its central portion the forward end of 'the needle supporting stud 28, also projecting through and forming a pivot for a needle segment 40. The rearward end of the stud 28 is supported in a plate 42 (see Fig. 7) also clamped to the carrier by the bolts 36, the stud being supported at either end by the plates 38 and 42.

The stationary rabbet gage 22 guides the work so that the needle will enter a shoe and emerge from the rabbet of the platform sole 2 without intersecting the lower outer corner of the rabbet at the edge of the sole.

To actuate the needle and other parts of the machine a main horizontal sewing shaft 43 is mounted for rotation in three bearings 44 on the machine frame (see Fig. 5) at a location beneath the level of the point at which the needle operates.

By reason of the needle stud mounting on the feed carrier 26 the needle while engaging the work during each sewing cycle moves with a work feeding clamp a stitch length. The Work feeding clamp thus includes the feeding rabbet gage 39 and a feeding presser foot 45 both mounted on the feed carrier 26. An additional purchase on the shoe is thus obtained in a manner to prevent any possibility of dislocation either vertically or horizontally, the use of a curved needle and the approach of the needle supporting segment into close proximity with the work while the needle engages it adding to the rigidity of the needle and the security with which the work is retained in the machine against displacement.

To actuate the feed carrier 26 it 1s provided w'th a rearwardly extending slotted arm, best shown in Figs. 5 and 6, within the slot of which is slidably engaged a rectangular block 46 rotatable on a pin 48 having an enlarged integral head at its lower end. The head of the pin 48 has a transverse threaded passage within which is engaged an adjusting screw 50. The head on the pin 48 is supported within a guideway formed in a block 52 rotatable on a vertical shaft 54 clamped within ya boss portion of the machine frame 32. At the ends of the guideway in the block 52 are clamped a pair of plates y56 having perforations to receive the ends of the adjusting screw 50, the adjusting screw having 'a knurled head for convenience in rotation. To prevent displacement of the adjusting screw 50 from the plates 56, one end of the screw carries a collar 57 and the other end beneath the knurled head has a lock nut 58. Rotation of the adjusting screw moves the pin 48 and the block 46 in the slot of the arm on the feed carrier 26, varying the eective length of the arm, to provide means for adjusting the length of each stitch. To impart movement to the block 46 the pin 48 is located eccentrically to the shaft 5f.- and the block 52 is oscillated through connections with the sewing shaft of the machine.

The connections between the main sewing shaft 43 and the block 52 for actuating the feed carrier compnse a stud 60 on the block having a spherical head engaged by a socket at one end of a link 62 having at its other end a strap portion surrounding an eccentric 64 (see Fig. 5) on the sewing shaft 43.

In order to provide reinforcement for the needle 14 during its feeding movement while engaging the work, so that a relatively thin gage needle may be employed, the needle passes through an opening in a needle guide frame 66 close to the upper surface of the work and upon emergence from the rabbet of the platform sole being sewn the needle is reinforced by one side of the work feeding rabbet gage 39 and by a surface on the loop spreader 16 (see Figs. 5, 7 and 8). Thus, the needle is reinforced in two directions along the line of feed in the machine both Iabove and below the work, the loop spreader 16 acting at the opposite side of theineedle from the work feeding rabbet gage 39.

Within the rabbet of the platform sole 2 the reinforcement of the needle by the rabbet gage 39 is `accomplished by a ilat end of the gage formed with its edges well rounded so as not to injure the thread carried by the needle. At the side of the needle opposite the rabbet gage 39 the needle, when in its maximum work penetnating position, comes into contact with a surface 68 on the spreader 16. The surface 68 is formed on a downwardly projecting lug portion of the spreader. Forwardly of the surface 68 is the hook 7G of the spreader which enters the loop carried by the needle. The surface 68 not only reinforces the needle but it serves as a convenient means for locating the hook 7 0 of the spreader properly with relation to the needle to cause the hook to enter the needle loop, indicated at 72, with certainty. The loop spreader 16 comprises a rearwardly projecting bar having projecting from it near its forward end a pin 74 rotatable in the lower end of a radius arm 76. The radius arm swings on a Xed screw 78. At its right end the loop spreader bar is connected with a split block (Figs. 5 and 6) forming a part -of the spreader actuating mechanism. The spreader is actuated by its mechanism twice for each oscillation of the needle, one transition of the spreader taking place idly without engaging the needle thread, as more fully described in inventors copending application. The split block 80 connects a crank pin 82 with the loop spreader 16 and enables the rearward end of the loop spreader bar to move laterally in accordance with the feeding movements of the bar as it is shifted by the feed carrier.

To assist in guiding the margin of the seam inserted by the machine during sewing operations, the work support 24 carries beneath its work-engaging surface an edge gage 83 in the form of a lin fixed at right angles to a pin 84 rotatable in the shank of the work support and in a lug secured to the under surface of the work support. The outer end of the pin 84 is formed With a right angle bend to provide a convenient handle with which to rotate it. When the gage 83 is in upright position, las in Fig. 5, it engages the outer edge of the platform sole to hold it closer to the line of the seam inserted by the needle than is determined by the spacing of the rabbet gages 22 and 39. The seam connecting the right forepart of a shoe tg Aable about fixed axes.

V100 it is mounted on a bell crank 102 pivotally connected r scrted with the gage 83 in its vertical position.

For oscillating the needle, toward and from the work,

Y-rnech-anism actuated by the main sewing shaft 43 is pro vided. This mechanism includes a counter weighted crank `-l I n Y H v heel 's'lioesg-Fth'e illustrated machine-'is .provided with a in the sewing shaft 43, the pin of which has a spherical surface engaged by a socket at one end of a pitman 86.

The other end of the pitman is similarly connected to a pin 88 on one arm of a bell crank 90. The bell crank 90 of lugs projecting from the machine frame. arm of the bell crank 90 carriesV a ball headed pin 93 receivcd within the socket of an adjustable link 94 simil-arly connected toa pin 96 securedto the needle segment 40. The shuttle 18 is similar in its construction to shuttles of'conventional form and includes within it a stationary thread case 97 having a circumferential rib rotatable in a guideway within the shuttle. The shuttle is rotated twice for each oscillation of the needle and is provided with special means for avoiding interference by the loop spreader with each loop of needle thread as it is carried about the thread case during alternate rotations of the shuttle.

To avoid interference of the loop spreader with the loop carried by the shuttle, the shuttle is formed with a detaining arm 98 located with relation to the loop entering beak 19 in a position displaced along the rotary axis of the shuttle and angularly about the shuttle axis to move nbeak a second time as the loop is being contracted by the stitch-forming devices.

Referring more particularly to Figs. 7 to l0, inclusive,

'A the needle 14 is illustrated in its maximum work penetrating position in Figs. 7 and 8.

In this position it is engaged by the loop spreader 16, the hook 70'thereon being shown as it enters the loop of needle thread. The spreader is then retracted from the needle and the needle begins to rise to the position of Figs. 9 and l0, the peak of the shuttle then entering the spread needle loop.

The other stitch forming devices of the machine include a takeup and a thread tension. The takeup consists of two arms 99, 100 (see Figs. l to 3 and 5), rotat- For actuating the takeup arm toga link 104, in turn connected to a lever comprising an arm of a pitman 106. The arrn of the pitman 106 has passing through it a pin 108 (Figs. 3 and 5). The pin 108 also passes through a radius arm 110 rotating on a fixed stud 111, the pitman 106 surrounding a crank 112 on the main sewing shaft 43. i

To assist the takeup action and to provide rapid movement of the thread at the proper time to set each stitch in the work, the takeup arm 99 moves downwardly past the upper Vend ofV a plate 113 lixed to the frame of the .machine The plate 113 isinotched at its upper end toV `*prevent escape of the thread as the. takcup arm 99 swings downwardly', the thread being deflected between the upper end of the arm 99 and -a perforated guide pin 114 (Fig. 5) secured to the machine frame from which Vthe thread passes toward the sewing point. From the guide pin 114 the thread is led through a vertical passage in a pin 115 secured to an opstanding projection of the plate 38 on the feed carrier and downwardly through the eye of the needle.

Bolted to the machine frame beside Ythe takeup arms is -a plate 116 having a circular portion on which the thread tension, comprising a pair of disks 117 is mounted.

Fromzthetensiondisks thethread passes through an'openi '(iiot shown). A

into "wards into'thesewingvpintf t The wrapper strip guide fof lthe Yinvention comprises a chute 119 formed byfolding theedg'e's of a widthof sheet to the :lower edge of an'inclied'anged tray 121 supported ing in a stationary pinllSv, andeittendsto a thread,supply nient Aofthe"inachiiief inventrs""prior patent, so` that cover stripwguidjfparticularly advantageous construcvtion,'especially'whenemployed with platform coveristrips "having'both varying widths and curvatures. As will be observed in gsfv L tofl inclusive', the toe' part 10 of the iII'trate'dHIYSv is relativlyfstraight and of uniform width,`b`ut' the heel part 11 increases rapidly in Twidthf from'oneend toward its center portion and is of f1"e`dicedv width ttiward tsother end. The curvature ofthe ffhe'elfprt als lis abrupt, so that 7a substantial widthwise sewing point,it1svattached'tempbrariljto the toe part 10. If the toe pa'r'tfthe;wrappe striptaccordingly is Aled e'machinefirst, the heel'part is carried along after- Yrnostfverticaldirection, being inclined somewhat forwardly of the machine. The folded over portionsof the v chute are cut 'awayfalong theirtrcentral section and the upper `end of ione side "has" secured to it a rearwardly curved apron 120 for insuring entry Vof a Wrapper strip into the' chute. Therearward side of the chute, is secured at its rearward end on -apost 122 mounted on a tab-le 123 to which 'the' friame'offthe- Ytna'chineY is bolted. Thelin- "'clinationofithe tray' 121 is approximately twentydegrees from the horizontal and the angle between Ythe tray and the'chute'iis"approximately ninety` degrees, so that the inclination of the chute is downwardly and about twenty degrees in the direction of the work feed in the machine while that of the tray is downwardly and in a direction oppositevto that of thefeed. i

The 'chute is xed to the upper end of a frame 124 (Fig. l) secured to the'machine-frame. The connectionwbetween the chuteY andthe frame 124 comprises a slide member0125 onthepg'chute entering into a cooperating guideway 126 on theframe 124. The guideway`126`is clamped to the frame 124 to provide suitable support vfor Y the chute which is adjustable toward and from the sewing point. Lateral'adjustment of the chute is provided for by shifting'the guideway 126 on the`frame 124 through T a clamp screw 127 passing through a slot in theguideway 'into threaded engagement with the frame"124.

T herarrangement of the chute 119 and the tray 121 is such that a wrapper strip maybe directed toward the sewing pointin'themachine either by inserting the toe part 10 ofthe strip 8 first or by inserting the heel part 11 first. Whichever partof the wrapper strip "is inserted j first the other part will lie in 'flattened relation along the tray until it also is drawn 'into the sewing point; As illustrated in Fig'. 1, the heel part 11 of 'the Vwrapper i strip is shown being sewn to the shoe before the toe part of the wrapper strip.

asada@ wrapper strip 8 between the outwardly curved edge thereof and a line connecting the ends of the strip. In Fig. 2 the spread of the wrapper strip 8 is generally denoted by the reference character k which is the perpendicular distance from a line connecting the ends of the strip to the farthest point along the outwardly curved edge. 1t will be appreciated that since the leading end of the heel part 11 is partially hidden, being disposed horizontally above the work support 24, and the strip is supported in two angularly oriented planes, the dimension k is somewhat foreshortened, and therefore not exact, but does clearly indicate the strip dimension which iniluences the necessary width of the tray 121.

To enable an operator to guide a variable width curved edge wrapper strip to the sewing point, in the illustrated machine, and to maintain the edge of the Wrapper strip constantly in alinement with the point of needle operation at the sewing point, the rearward portion of the chute 119 has an opening 128 (see Fig. 3) through which projects a wrapper strip advancing device in the form of a roughened edge of a feed wheel 136 disposed at an angle to the direction of movement of the strip in the chute and inclined toward the fold in the sheet metal comprising the chute. The angle of the wheel 130 is such that it constantly draws the edge of the wrapper strip toward a lower folded edge portion 132 (Fig. 1) at the end of the chute which acts as an edge guide for the strip. If the chute is properly alined with the sewing point, the Wheel 130 will draw the Wrapper strip uniformly against the edge guide at the desired position for effective sewing. The cut-away section in the folded edge of the chute enables the convex curvature of the Wrapper strip to bulge without displacing the trailing end of the strip excessively across the tray 121. Y

The wrapper feed wheel 130 is secured to'a spindle 134 (Fig. 3) rotating in a sleeve bearing 136 projecting from a swivel block 138 (see also Figs. 3 and 4). The swivel block has three spaced bearing lugs through which an extension of the sleeve bearing 136 passes and between two of these lugs is disposed a clamp coll/ar 140 secured to the bearing 136. To enable the block 138 to swivel, it has projecting upwardly from it an integral -pin 142 rotatable in a b-racket 144 secured by a screw 146 to the frame 124. The pin 142 is arranged to enable the block 138 to rotate in a direction which causes the roughened wheel 13) to move toward and from engagement with a wrapper strip in the chute 119.

For the purpose of varying the pressure of the wheel against the wrapper strip and to facilitate entry of a wrapper strip into the chute, the upper end of the pin 142 has secured to it an actuating arm 148 formed with a handle end connected to one end of a tension spring 150, the other end of which is connected to an adjusting screw 152 secured in an upturned ear of the bracket 144. The action of the spring 150 causes the block to swivel in a direction to press the roughened wheel 130 yieldingly against a wrapper strip in the chute.

To enable the roughened wheel 130 to be retracted from the chute, so that a wrapper strip may be inserted and to enable the wheel to be held selectively in an operative or an inoperative position out of engagement with the wrapper strip While still being rotated in engagement ,with the strip along certain portions of the strip, the operating arm 148 is moved manually in a forward direction (to the right in Fig. 4) against the action of the spring 151! and retained in its forward position by a manually actuated latch 154 which swings -about a screw 156 entering the bracket 144 and is yieldingly actuated to latching position by a leaf spring 158 also secured to the bracket 144. After a wrapper strip has been inserted in the chute with its trailing end supported by the tray 121, manual depression of a right angle ange on the latch 154 disengages the latch from the arm 148, so that the spring 150 presses the roughened wheel 130 against the wrapper strip inserted.

Where a variable Width wrapper strip 8 is employed with an outer edge of extreme curvature, it has been found necessary to drive the roughened wheel positively through a rotating mechanism actuated by the sewing shaft in order to insure engagement of the wrapper strip with the lower guiding edge portion 132 of the chute 119. To rotate the roughened wheel 130 the extension of `the spindle 134 passing through the swivel block 138 is connected with a flexible cable enclosed in a ilexible sheath 162 mounted above the level of the needle and operatively connected between the main sewing shaft and the advancing wheel 130. The sheath is supported in an arm of the swivel block 138 and is fixed within a short sleeve 164 also clamped to one of the bearing portions of the swivel block. The other end of the sheath 162 is secured within the reduced end of a coupling 166 (see Fig. 4) made fast to a bearing on a'reversely bent bar 168 (see also Figs. 1, 2 and 3). The lower end of the bar 168 is secured to the machine frame and the upper reversely bent end has rotatable in its bearing portion a rod 170 at one end of which is secured the driven end of the flexible cable 160. The arrangement is such that when the rod 171) is rotated the wheel 130 acts to drive the Wrapper strip in the chute 108 against the lower guiding end portion 132 of the chute regardless of the curvature of the wrapper strip, thus insuring proper register of the wrapper strip with the other parts of the shoe being sewn at the sewing point.

To avoid unnecessarily abrading and overfeeding of the Wrapper strip by the wheel 130 beyond the speed at which the feeding devices in the machine operate, the rod 170 is driven through a frictional slip clutch connection with the main sewing shaft of the machine. For this purpose the rod 176 has rotatably mounted on its central portion a gear 172 engaging at one side of its hub a friction clutch washer 174 backed by a collar 176 pinned to the rod 170. The other side of the hub on the gear 172 is engaged by a washer 178 fixed to the rod 170, against which washer a spring 180 is compressed by a thimble 182, which thimble is in turn acted upon by an adjusting thumb screw 184 carried by the upper end of a lever 186 fulcrumed on a shoulder screw 188 threaded into a bracket 196) supported by the bar 168. The compression of the spring 1811 determines the driving force applied by .the gear 172 of the slip clutch to the rod 170 and consequently the driving force of the roughened wheel 130.

Where wrapper strip heel parts formed with extreme curvatures are operated upon it is sometimes necessary to vary the driving force of the roughened Wheel 130 in order that the Iouter edge of the wrapper strip heel part may be held with certainty against the edge guiding por tion 132 of the chute 119. To increase or decrease the driving force of the wheel 130, the compression of the spring 180 may be varied while sewing operations are in progress. For this purpose the lower end of the lever 186 carries a stud 192 entering loosely into engagement with the slotted upper end of a bell crank 194 rotatable on a pin 196 carried by the bracket 190. A rearwardly projecting arm of the bell crank 194 has connected to it a vertical link 198 also connected t-o an armature 280 of an electromagnet 292 mounted at the rear of the machine on the table 123. Circuit connections for the electromagnet include wires 284 and are carried toward the front of the machine. The circuit connections are controlled at the front of the machine by means of a toggle switch 206 having a conveniently located operating handle 208 just below the sewing point of the machine. The location of the switch handle 208 is arranged close to the sewing point so that the operator, in presenting the shoe parts to the machine, may engage the handle and operate the switch merely by a movement of his wrist or forearm.

For driving the roughened wheel rotating gear 172 its teeth mesh with tho-se of an idler 210'rotating on a stud 212 mounted in the bar 168 and the idler engages `aspm' 1 1 gear 214 secured to a continuation of a horizontal shaft 216 supported at its rearward end in a bearing formed in the bar 168, the shaft 216 being driven from the main sewing shaft 44.

The train of gears between the shaft 216 and the rod 170 have such a ratio that the roughened wheel 130 may be driven at a speed in excess of requirements. Under all circumstances the speed of rotation of the roughened wheel 130, however, is reduced by the resistance met in feeding the wrapper strip and the difference between its actual speed and the speed at which it is possible to drive it being taken up by slippage between the gear 172 and the friction washer 174.

Having thus described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. A lockstitch shoe sewing machine having a curved eye pointed needle, a shuttle, and a carrier on which the needle is mounted to enable movement of the needle along the line of a seam to feed the work, in combination with a loop spreader mounted on the needle carrier for movement between the needle and the shuttle and formed with a surface engaging the needle during feed of the work to reinforce the needle against deflection.

2. A lockstitch shoe sewing machine having a curved eye pointed needle, a shuttle, and a carrier on which the needle is mounted to enable movement of the needle along the line of a seam to feed the work, in combination with a loop spreader mounted on the needle carrier for movement between the needle and shuttle and formed with a hook to enter the loop of thread carried by the needle and with a side surface engaging the needle between the eye and point during feed of the work to reinforce the needle against deflection and to insure entry of the hook into the Iloop carried by the needle.

3. A shoe machine adapted for rsewing an upper to a sock lining attached to the inner surface of Va platform sole, having a curved eye pointed needle oscillating in an arcuate path, a loop spreader, and mechanism for actuating the loop spreader a plurality of times toward and from the path of the needle during each oscillation of the needle, in combination with a cylindrical shuttle rotating a plurality of times for each oscillation of the needle and having a loop entering beak and a detaining arm disposed in angularly displaced relation to the beak to enable engagement with each loop `opened by the loop spreader in one actuation of the spreader during one needle oscillation and to move the loop carried by the shuttle out of the range of the loop spreader in another actuation of the spreader.

4. A shoe machine adapted for sewing an upper to a sock lining attached to the inner surface of a platform sole, having a curved eye pointed needle oscillating in an arcuate path, a loop spreader, and mechanism for actuating the loop spreader a plurality of times toward and from the path of the needle during each oscillation of the needle, in combination with a cylindrical shuttle rotating a plurality of times for each oscillation of the needle and having a loop entering beak and a detaining arm located in displaced relation along the axis of the shuttle rotation, the beak of the shuttle being disposed to enter the range of movement of the loop spreader and the detaining arm being mounted on the shuttle at a location to prevent engagement of the thread with the shuttle beak.

5. A machine adapted for sewing an upper to a sock lining attached to the inner surface of a platform sole and to a variable width wrapper strip, having stitch-forming and Work-feeding devices including a curved eyepointed needle mounted for Ioscillation toward and from the upper surface of the Work and for movement in the direction of feed while engaging the work to feed it, and a loop taker mounted beneath the work to cooperate with theneedle, in combination with `wrapper snip supporting means mounted above the sewing point and provided with a1 device in addition to the work-feeding devices for advancing toward the sewing point the Wrapper strip during sewing and for drawing the strip at an angle to the direction of work feed in the machine.

6. A machine adapted for sewing an upper to a sock lining attached to the inner surface of a platform sole Vand to a variable width wrapper strip, having stitch-form.- ing and Work-feeding devices including a curved eyepointed needle mounted for oscillation about a stud toward and from the upper surface of the work and for movement in the direction of feed while engaging the work to feed it, and a loop taker mounted beneath the work to cooperate with the needle, in combination with variable width wrapper strip supporting means mounted above the sewing point on the work and provided with a device in addition to the work-feeding devices for advancing the wrapper strip during sewing toward the sewing point and at an angle to the direction of work feed in the machine, and means in the form of mechanism for actuating the advancing device, including a exible cable mounted above the needle supporting stud.

7. A shoe sewing machine adapted for fastening a curved variable width wrapper strip to an upper and sock lining attached to an inner surface of the platform sole, having a main frame, stitch-forming and work-feeding devices including an eye-pointed needle mounted in the frame for movement toward and from the upper surface of the work and in the direction of feed while engaging the work to feed it anda loop taker mounted in the frame beneath the level of the point at which the needle operates, a main horizontal sewing shaft and bearings in the frame also beneath the level of a point at which the needle operates, in combination with a wrapper strip supporting means mounted Iabove the level of the point at which the needle operates and provided with a device in addition to the work-feeding devices for-advancing the wrapper strip at an Aangle to the direction of feed toward the sewing point in the machine during the sewing operation, and means in the form of mechanism for actuating the advancing device including a exible cable mounted above the level of the point at which the needle operates and operatively connected between the main sewing shaft and the advancing device.

8. A shoe machine adapted for fastening a variable width wrapper `Strip having ends, Ian outwardly curved edge, tand a perpendicular distance k from :a straight line connecting the ends to the farthest point from the line along the curved edge to an upper and a sock lining attached to an inner surface of a platform sole, said machine having fastening devices and a guide against which the edge of the platform sole is guided along the point of operation of the fastening devices, in combination with strip supporting means including a flat tray of substantially greater width than k mounted above the point of fastening operations, and means including a stationary chute projecting downwardly from one end of the tray and extending substanti-ally to the point of fastening operations for directing the strip toward the fastening devices.

9. A shoe machine adapted for fastening a curved wrapper strip having ends, an outwardly curved edge, and a perpendicular distance k from a straight line connecting the ends to the farthest point from the line along the curved edge to an upper and a sook lining attached to an inner surface of a platform sole, said machine having fastening devices and la guide against which the edge of the platform sole is guided, in combination with strip supporting means including aA flat tray of substantially greater width than k mounted above the point of fastening operations, and means including a stationary chute connecting one end of the tray and the point of fastening operations with its lower end disposed in the line of operation of the fastening devices for supporting the strip while being led from the tnay into the operating point of the machine.

10. A shoe machine adapted for fastening a variable Width wrapper strip having ends, anV outwardly curved edge, and a perpendicular distance k from a straight line aceites? 13A connecting the ends to the farthest point from the line along the curved edge to an upper and a sock lining attached to an inner Surface of a platform sole, said machine having fastening devices and an edge guide against which the edge of the wrapper strip is drawn, in combination with strip supporting means including a at tray of substantially greater width than k mounted above the point of fastening operations, means including a stationary chute connecting one end of the tray and the point of fastening operations with its lower end disposed in the line of operation of the fastening devices for supporting the strip while being led from the tray into the operating point of the machine, and means acting on the wrapper strip in the chute to draw the strip to the limit of its movement against said edge guide.

11 A shoe machine adapted for fastening a variable width wrapper strip having ends, an outwardly curved edge, and a perpendicular distance k from a straight line connecting the ends to the farthest point from the line along the curved edge to 'an upper and a sock lining attached to an inner surface of a platform sole, said machine having fastening devices and an edge guide against which the strip is drawn, in combination with strip supporting means including a flat tray of substantially greater width than k mounted above the point of fastening operations, means including a stationary chute connecting one end of the tray and the point of fastening operations with its lower end disposed in the line of operation of the fastening devices for supporting the strip while being led from the tray into the operating point of the machine, and means acting on the strip in the chute to urge it to the limit of its movement against said edge guide comprising a rotatable wheel set with its axis of rotation at an angle to the movement of the strip in the chute.

l2. A shoe machine adapted for fastening a variable width wrapper strip having ends, an outwardly curved edge, and a perpendicular distance k from a straight line connecting the ends to the farthest point from the line along the curved edge to an upper and a sock lining attached to an inner surf-ace of a platform sole, said machine having fastening devices, and a guide against which the strip is drawn to bring it into line with the fastening devices, in combination with strip supporting means including a flat tray of substantially greater width than k mounted above the point of fastening operations, means including a stationary chute connecting one end of the tray and the point of fastening operations with its lower end disposed in the line of operation of the fastening devices for supporting the strip while being led from the tray into the operating point of the machine, means acting on the strip in the chute to urge it to the limit of its movement against said guide comprising a rotatable wheel set with its axis of rotation at an angle to the movement f the strip in the chute, means for driving the wheel, and shiftable means for engaging and disengaging the wheel from the strip.

13. A shoe machine adapted for fastening a variable width wrapper strip to an upper and a sock lining attached to an inner surface of a platform sole, having fastening and feeding devices and an edge guide against which the wrapper strip is drawn to bring it into line with the fastening devices, in combination with chute means disposed in the line of operation of the fastening devices for supporting the wrapper strip while being led into the operating point of the fastening devices, a rotatable wheel set with its axis of rotation at an acute angle to the movement of the strip through the chute to draw the wrapper strip against the edge guide, means for driving the wheel, a spring for pressing the wheel against the wrapper -strip in the chute means, and a manually actuated latch to enable the wheel to be held out of engagement with the wrapper strip against the action of the spring and to cause the wheel to engage the strip while sewing along certain parts only of the strip.

14. A shoe machine adapted for fastening a variable Width wrapper strip to an upper and a sock lining at-4 tached to an inner surface of a platform sole, having fastening and feeding devices and an edge guide against which the wrapper strip is drawn to bring it into line with the fastening devices, -in combination with chute means disposed in the line of operation of the fastening devices for supporting the wrapper strip while being led into the operating point of the fastening devices, a ro; tatable wheel set with its 'axis of rotation at an acute' angle to the movement of the strip through the chute means to draw the wrapper strip against the edge guide, a spring for pressing the wheel against the wrapper strip in the chute means, and a frictional slip clutch for driving the wheel to prevent overfeed of the wrapper strip beyond the speed of operation of the feeding devices.

15. A -shoe machine adapted for fastening a variable width wrapper strip to an upper and a sock lining attached to an inner surface of a platform sole, having fastening and feeding devices and an edge guide against which the wrapper lstrip is drawn to bring it into line with the fastening devices, in combination with chute means disposed in the line of operation of the fastening devices for supporting the wrapper strip while being led into the operating point of the fastening devices, a rotatable wheel set with its axis of rotat-ion at an acute angle to the movement of the strip through the chute means to draw the wrapper strip against the edge guide, a spring for pressing the wheel against the wrapper strip in the chute means, a frictional `slip clutch for driving the wheel to prevent overfeed of the wrapper strip beyond the speed of operation of the feeding devices, and means for adjusting the driving force of the slip clutch.

16. A shoe machine adapted for fastening a variable width wrapper strip to an upper and a sock lining attached to an inner surface of a platform sole, having fastening and feeding devices and a guide against which the wrapper strip is drawn to bring it into line with the fastening devices, in combination with chute means disposed in the line of operation of the fastening devices for supporting the wrapper strip while being led into the operating point of the fastening devices, a rotatable wheel 'set with its axis of rotation at an acute angle to the movement of the strip through the chute means to draw the Wrapper strip against the edge guide, a spring for pressing the wheel against the wrapper strip in the chute means, a frictional slip clutch for driving the wheel to prevent overfeed of the wrapper strip beyond the speed of operation of the feeding devices, and means for adjusting the driving force of the slip clutch comprising an electromagnet, an armature therefor connected to the clutch, and a switch for controlling the electromagnet located close to the point of operation of the fastening devices to enable the operator to actuate the switch while presenting the shoe parts to the machine.

17. A machine adapted for sewing together an upper, a sock lining attached to the inner surface of a platform sole, and a variable width wrapper strip, comprising a work support, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a curved eye-pointed needle, a shuttle below the work support and a carrier on which the needle is mounted for movement along the line of a seam to feed the work and for oscillation toward and from Ithe upper surface of the work, variable width wrapper strip supporting means mounted above the sewing point, means in addition to the work feeding devices for advancing the wrapper kstrip during sewing toward the sewing point and at an angle to the direction of work feed in the machine, and a loop spreader mounted on the needle carrier for movement between the needle and the shuttle.

18. A machine adapted for sewing together an upper, a sock lining attached to the inner surface of a platform sole, and a variable Width wrapper strip, comprising a work support, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a curved eye-pointed needle, a shuttle below the work support, and a carrier on which the needle is 15 mounted for movement along lthe line of a seam to feed the work and for oscillation toward and from the upper surface of the work, variable width wrapper strip supporting means mounted above the sewing point, means Vin addition to the work feeding devices for advancing the wrapper strip during sewing toward the sewing point and at an angle to the direction of work feed in the machine, and loop spreader means mounted on the needle carrier for movement between the needle and shuttle formed with a hook to enterthe loop of thread carried by the needle and with a side surface engaging the needle between the eye and point during feed of the work to reinforce the needle against the deection from the forces of feeding the work and to insure entry of the hook into the loop carried by the needle.

References Cited in the vtile of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Latham 2 Apr. 7, Eggert 24, Morrill f July12, Bankier Apr. l, Hopkins Apr. 23, Miner -1-- Mal". 4, Ashworth Sept. 2, Knott .1..-- Dec. 23, Stritter Apr. 25, Clark Feb. 27, Crary July 7, 

